My Projects

Here is the list of all my current projects by location and my thoughts on them.

Castle Rock:

Duct Tape V5 - I've tried this climb on two sessions, very close fell once at the top out because of a heel slip.  Chance of sending this season: high

Heuco Wall V5+? - Guide book lists as V5 but feels harder compare to other v5s in the area.  Tried this a bunch of times but the last two session I've made some significant progress.  I'm able to do it in two sections with the transition to right hand under cling for the launch to finish hold being the toughest right now but since castle is so close to me, I'm pretty confident about sending this.  Chance of send: high


Yabo Roof V5 - I have the whole thing dialed...except the top out.  It always feels like a desperate beached whale thing and I've made little progress but didn't give it any real effort.  I think if I just concentrate on the ending and spend a session or two (god I hope it's just one session) working it I could figure it out.  Chance of send: High

Lost Key Traverse V6 - I've only tried this for one session, I have done it in 3 sessions with the transition into the sloper rail the most difficult.  It's kind of long and very pumpy, so that's definitely a challenge for me. Chance of sending: Medium

Berkeley:

Sunshine V5 - I crusied the the last move but chickened out on the cross move.  I feel pretty confident on sending this if I only man up :) Chance of send: High

Black Plague V6 - I actually haven't tried this so I'm not sure but it's one of the better looking lines at mortar rock.  Chance of sending: hard to tell till I try it

Great stone face V7 - Spend one session on it, I can do the lower part consistently but it takes a lot of energy.  I tried the "v4" crux move and it felt pretty hard to me even from the stand start.  But the move is at least straight forward and top out from what I hear is straight forward with good holds.  If I sent this, it'll be a personal best for outdoors.  Chance of sending: Medium


Bishop
Coming Soon:

Yosemite
Coming Soon:

The Plan

So since summer here in the bay area isn't ideal for outdoor climbing.  I thought I would take this opportunity to systematically train for all of my outstanding projects in the local areas as well as in bishop and yosemite.  After doing some research, I decided to take the periodization approach to training focusing on strength, power, and power endurance.  The plan is to train from July to October, then I'll be on a 2 week trip to china which is a perfect time for rest.

Hopefully it'll work and I can come back stronger than ever and send all my projects.